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The student blog for Rice University's Urban Lab in Shanghai.
 

Archive for March, 2015


I Thought We Were Going to China

March 19th, 2015 by Anastasia Bolshakov

There’s nothing like sitting at your gate in the airport and watching your boarding time slowing tick by, your flight never being called. After less than four hours of sleep, you continue to wait, and at this point you’ve missed your connecting flight. China seems farther than before. It’s a bit embarrassing that the largest airport, that used to be the Continental hub, in the third largest city in the United States, cannot figure out how to defrost a plane. Thankfully, Shelby somehow convinced Delta to send us somewhere that would eventually connect us to Shanghai. Spending one night in New York, is not the worst thing that could happen – even though I’d be back in a week’s time #CMANYC15.

  

Jeh and Nicole left us as we got to New York, while the rest of us waited as Shelby dealt with Delta. We did have a little scare when Matthew’s bag hadn’t come out onto the carousel, even 20 minutes after everyone else’s bags arrived. February has always been a bad month for me (did I mention my suitcase broke?), but at this point I started feeling as though I’d infected the whole group with my bad luck – this was a great start to our trip. Thankfully, as Matthew went to talk to a Delta representative, his bag finally came; and soon after Shelby arrived with our NY hotel information and a bus to take us there. Maybe this trip could be salvaged after all.
In New York, we took an Uber to the Empire State Building – a ticket heckler outside the tired to convince us that it’s the tallest building in the world, but we knew better. We then ended up in the Toys R’US store in Times Square, because we’re all basically overgrown children. I rode the indoor Ferris Wheel because I’m the biggest child there is. For dinner we headed to a ramen place that Emma recommended – and I find out that ramen is actually a Japanese dish (who knew? not me obviously). To finish off the night we headed to Central Park and Rockefeller Center because we’re basic NYC tourists.
The next morning, we were on our way to China on China Eastern Airlines – who get really mad about cellphone use on planes (airplane mode, come on!). The long 15-hour flight gave me some time to watch some movies, and to think about my project a bit more. Sadly nothing in New York has anything to do with my topic – marriage trends in China, but I has time to read up some more articles about the Marriage Market while in New York.

The Things We Leave Behind

March 18th, 2015 by baz2


This is a pithy, almost scripted, beginning to our trip. What better way to start a trip on cities in China than with a detour to America’s most famous city? It’s the perfect chance to end our last trip in America, by walking around in New York City, in preparation of spending time in China’s closest equivalent, Shanghai.

Our flight got canceled because of a snow-removal breakdown at Houston. This being Houston, freezing temperatures that create ice on windows and runways and such are usually not a thing. This makes things difficult on the rare days when it becomes a thing, such as on the day we left. Delta eventually got us another flight to New York, where we eventually spent the night.

We spent several hours waiting in LaGuardia for transportation to our hotel, then spent about half an hour resting before going out into the city. This, by the way, involved an Uber ride that cost $80. The Political Science department is paying for that, but it’s still kind of awe-inspiring seeing that on my phone.

 

We walked around Manhattan for a bit and saw the famous buildings. We didn’t go up them, because that shit is expensive. We did go in the M&M’s center in Time Square (that place is definitely super-touristy) and rode on a giant ferris wheel–OK, some of us did. The rest all sucked, obviously, because they didn’t get on the big indoor ferris wheel.

We ate dinner at a ramen place, where I had curry and ramen. Because when you’re in New York, you eat ramen (just kidding: first of all, all the food in New York is good, and second of all, the ramen was good, so it’s all good. I just used the word “good” way too much. That’s not good).

If you want photos of the beautiful New York skyline, you’ll have to look on Wikipedia. I brought my phone. You see, just taking photos of cool stuff is less my style–stock photos will do a better job than an amateur like myself ever will. Photos are really only worth something when there are people in them. And that’s taken care of because the editor of the YEARBOOK is on this trip. I suspect Anya will be completely capable of taking photos on the behalf of every single person on this trip.

That said, here’s a picture of me in Central Park.

See? This is why Anya and Matt, with their professional real cameras, are going to take care of the photos, while I, with my cell phone, will limit myself to novelty photos and gratuitous selfies.

I’m rather embarrassed to admit that I’ve actually been to all three of the cities we’re going to visit. However, I think context is important, too. I’ve only visited with parents before, and that is enough for me to want to visit without parents. Also, last time I visited New York was in the summer for a college touring trip (that is, back in high school).

Here’s my admission. I can’t get behind New York. It’s just not my city. I can’t get behind the feel of the buildings. I just don’t really like the whole Gilded Age feel of the early skyscrapers or the art-deco of the Empire State building or the 50’s modernism. This was how I felt last time I was here, and I still felt like that this time around.

The Apple Store was pretty awesome, though.

No minced words can hide this fact: New York was a detour from our main trip. We were not prepared to really “learn” anything per se from New York, because we honestly thought we were going to be in Shanghai by now (so we didn’t study it). It was still kind of cool walking around New York, though, even if it was frickin’ cold.

The Return to the West

March 18th, 2015 by amh11

After an exciting and activity filled Spring Break, we finally headed back to the US. My time in China had broadened my horizons, and exposed me to a culture and environment very different to the one that I was used to back home. I had enjoyed my time in China, but I was very glad to return to the United States, and the freedoms and amenities which I have become used too. Mobility, pollution, political suppression, and access to the internet and social media were all issues in China that were not issues I encountered in my everyday life in the US.

If I could repeat this trip again, there is little that I would do differently; the process of learning and exploration that we undertook on our trip to Shanghai and Beijing was invaluable in giving me a broadened perspective toward the socio-economic layout of a complicated and rising nation. I would probably have chosen a slightly different project idea originally, as I did not find much evidence for my first proposal. I also would have brought more basic amenities (razors, shaving cream, etc) and learned more Chinese prior to leaving on the trip.

If I return to China, I would want to speak with more government officials or university lecturers in Shanghai and Beijing. Further, I would like to visit the more rural areas of China or explore some of the “smaller” Chinese cities. At the end of the trip, I can say that I have certainly gained a new appreciation for life here in the States, while at the same time an appreciation for the complex ambitions and faults of the modern Chinese state.

 

Beijing: The Artery of the PRC

March 18th, 2015 by amh11

The bulk of our projects’ research completed, we left Shanghai for another bustling metropolis: Beijing. As the capital of the People’s Republic of China and a city steeped in millennium of history, Beijing proved an exciting and informative end to our trip. We reached the city by way of a bullet train from Shanghai. Most of us seized the opportunity to get some sleep, but the factory-dotted countryside provided interesting views along the way.

In Beijing we feasted on delicious Peking Duck and visited the Forbidden City, Tienanmen Square, the Summer Palace, and the Great Wall. The Forbidden City was a remarkable piece of cultural history, and some friends and I were surprised and impressed by what we saw in the Imperial Garden. Tienanmen Square, dotted with statues of communist patriots fighting for freedom as well as patrols of armed soldiers, was unwittingly ironic in the cruelest way; there was almost a palatable tension in the air (As we learned later, there had been a knife attack recently, and the government was holding assembly nearby).

The Summer Palace was beautiful and serene. The Great Wall surpassed my expectations, and we enjoyed exploring the ancient structure. Almost as much fun as the wall itself was the toboggan ride to the bottom, where you controlled the speed and breaks, and there wasn’t much of a side rail! We talked with alumni and locals in Beijing in order to get a firsthand understanding of our projects. I learned how difficult it was for rural Chinese to make their way to the better opportunities and living conditions of the big cities.

Shanghai: The Paris of the East?

March 17th, 2015 by amh11

We had finally arrived in Shanghai, the city that had once been known as the Paris of the East. I was excited to explore this great and historic city, and of course, to try one of the KFCs that has sprung up all over China. We visited the Urban Planning Museum, and got one of our first tastes of the paradox of Chinese development. Behind an ostentatious golden sculpture of the city, a sprawling work of art extolling the virtues of communism and the workers paradise had been painted on the wall. Our experiences throughout China would express this duality; all may be equal, but among Chinese cities and the Chinese populace, some cities and people were definitely more equal than others.

The Marriage Market, where primarily parents attempt to find matches for their aging children, was a unique cultural and social experience. The corporate Pudong zone, the historic Bund, and Jing’an temple were intriguing stops for us on our journey to better understand the culture and socio-economic climate of this complex city. Excellent food and the horror of Chinese subways were both memorable experiences which I won’t (and sadly can’t forget, in the case of the subways).

My project was to see if areas with historically high minority populations were subjected to practices that would lead to a more polluted environment. Through several enlightening talks with Rice alumni and lecturers, I began to see that minorities were adequately well treated in China; discrimination in this rapidly modernizing country was based far more on geographic location then ethnicity. Where you live determines the job opportunities, marriage opportunities, and the pollution that you have to face, and pollution especially in China is a large problem. Schools  have been closed and flights have been diverted thanks to the severe air pollution that is  plaguing China’s larger cities. For many, industrialization has come with a terrible cost.

 

Houston, We Have a Problem

March 17th, 2015 by amh11

Our journey to Shanghai  began somewhat inauspiciously, thanks in part to the vicissitudes of Texas weather. The plane that would have taken us on the first step of our journey to Shanghai was grounded by freezing temperatures over the night, and we were forced to adapt our plans. After a short wait we took a plane to one of the United State’s great economic and flight hubs, New York City. Our flight originally would have laid over in Detroit, so the group was not too chagrined by the change in venue; now we would get to see one of the largest American cities immediately before we visited one of China’s.

We spent an entertaining night in NYC, enjoying the regular tourist draws and trekking through several blocks in search of an elusive ramen restaurant. However, the food was delicious, and we all enjoyed the chance to see Times Square and the Empire State building, once the tallest skyscraper in the world before yielding the title to ambitious projects in the Middle East, and China, of course. A few days later we would get the chance to see the second largest building in the world, stretching tall above the Pudong District of Shanghai.

The next day was travel intensive, as we flew over the top of the world en route to the Shanghai. We had plenty of opportunity to catch up on shows and movies during what was nearly a 15 hour flight between the two great cities. As we flew over the icy North, I considered what I hoped to accomplish in the country that would be my home for the next 10 days. China was growing economically, but at what cost? What prices did the Chinese pay in the currency of pollution and socio-economic capital in their drive to become an industrial power? I hoped I would find out in the next week and a half.

Back To ‘Merica

March 9th, 2015 by Lanie Tubbs
In China we saw an an incredible amount of sites and partook in many “China bucket list” experiences. By virtue of having only a little more than a week two of the largest cities in the world (also conveniently located in one of the most historically and socially rich nations in the world), our time was jam-packed with the many must-see tourist attractions of China. I couldn’t have asked for anything more for my experience abroad.
However, our constrained time meant that our trip was similar to a tour and, therefore, lacked many organic, commonplace experiences. We stayed for a week. We ate at excellent restaurants. We stayed in bustling areas of town. We didn’t go to the grocery store. We didn’t commute to work. We didn’t visit any friend’s home. While I believe that I know and understand China much better, I don’t exactly know how the citizens of Shanghai and Beijing actually live. As a result, I’d like to learn more about the many aspects of everyday life in China. I’d like to learn about how the experiences of different socioeconomic groups vary or correlate.
If I get the opportunity to return to China, I hope that I have time to learn about these aspects of Chinese life. One vital tool to do this would be competence with Mandarin. Knowing the language was obviously invaluable for those in our group who spoke Mandarin prior. I’d love to follow up and learn to speak the language so that, when I return, I can actually interact with natives.
Life in Houston would be much easier with a transportation system that of Shanghai. I also loved even-numbered prices that made paying in cash easy. But, while I felt comfortable (especially in Shanghai) and hope to spend more time in China, I was still glad to be home. I was ready for a non-family style meal and for more non-smoking environments. The creature comforts of a life that I am used to are certainly what I missed most. Additionally, as previously indicated, I’ve come to appreciate simply being able to communicate–to ask people, “What’s with the fireworks?” or “why is there a long line?” Finally, what I’ve come to appreciate greatly is (relatively) clean air. When I clearly see the skyline of Houston all the way from Rice, I sigh with relief. Clean air is magical.
I can’t wait to return to China. I hope I can live and work there, at least for a short time; there is much to be learned and much to experience still.

Censorship

March 8th, 2015 by Lanie Tubbs

In regards to my trip, people love to ask me “What was the (weirdest/most bizarre/craziest) thing you saw?” Luckily, this question gives me a chance to talk about a truly surreal experience.

Throughout the trip, I couldn’t help but be blown away by the appearance that “Communist” China is winning at capitalism. Additionally, the entire society seemed very… free. No one seemed oppressed in the way some American politicians argue. But, halfway through the trip, I was forced to reconsider this judgement when we visited Tiananmen Square…

In the matter of seconds, a woman (seemingly) jumped in front of a bus and get on the ground, seemingly trying to end her own life. A police officer managed to slow the bus and move the woman to safety. She wasn’t distraught or weepy. Rather, she was kicking and screaming, fighting the multitude of soldiers, police officers, and suited men who materialized and surrounded her. Just a minute or so after her suicide attempt, she was hidden away in a conveniently stationed van.

 

I was left wanting much information. Who was this woman? Was her jump in front of the bus truly intentional? Why did she choose this location? Did she have a cause? Will she be okay in the hands of the guards? What we do know is that the National People’s Congress was in session just down the block. The security personnel, were, also, obviously not willing to allow a scene and were well trained to prevent just that.

My reaction and opinion is predictable: I couldn’t help but reconsider how free the people of China are. Suicide is certainly something security would want to prevent… but was it necessary to cart the woman away? In addition to shocking me, this incident did actually affect how I perceived migrant issues.

Previously, I wondered why nothing significant was being done to address the inequality that migrants experienced. With migrant inequality affecting so many people in Shanghai alone–and arguable withholding some human rights–one would think that someone would stand up and force change; the sheer number of rural workers and migrant urban dwellers would certainly carry some authority. However, perhaps in addition to factors such as apathy or political education, political censorship may very well be preventing some from making a bold move.

Pollution has been forced onto the political agenda, partially due to pressure from the citizenry. Even still, migrants are unprotected, and they have everything to lose. Perhaps many factors align to allow censorship and the fear that accompanies it to prevent migrants and those who care about migrants from making substantial change happen.

Simultaneous, on the other end of the spectrum, the event also makes me question the political and media environment in the U.S. While silencing a woman’s protest (and also concealing the events that occurred at Tiananmen years again) seems audacious, doesn’t the U.S. do the similar things? Various groups can functionally alter history recorded in text books, while the media determines what does–or does not–receive publicity. Similarly, if an individual jumped in front of a vehicle in front of the U.S. Capitol Building while Congress was in session, I don’t believe that security would exactly allow media coverage or significant attention.

In Transit, Again

March 5th, 2015 by Lanie Tubbs

Planes! Trains! Automobiles!

After a delicious meal of Hunan cuisine, we boarded a high-speed train and left Shanghai behind. I’d never been on a real train before and was nearly as excited for the train ride as I was to see another city. Despite my eagerness, all the hype about the train had also left me a bit nervous; I expected to board a rickety old train and to have to struggle for a seat on a wooden bench next to a stinky old man who had no qualms about spitting in the compartment.

My expectations were completely off base and all my eagerness was confirmed. The train was spacious and comfortable (and all the passengers were well-groomed) and featured giant windows to entertain me throughout the entire trip. The train lurched into motion, and I reclined my cushy seat… only to realize within minutes that my en-route entertainment through the window was to be much different than anticipated.

Only miles away from the train station, on the outskirts of Shanghai, I began to see a completely different China. The suburbs of Shanghai near the train station continued until they met the suburbs of other, smaller cities all the way to Nanjing. Their architecture featured cookie-cutter high rises ten to twenty stories tall with drab, utilitarian exteriors.

I knew that this was the area outside of Shanghai was home to migrants, forced to the outskirts as property values nearer to the city center continued to sky-rocket. Prior to the train-ride a teacher of migrant students told me that the migrant populations are constantly pushed further and further from the city; however, I hadn’t taken the time to imagine what these migrant communities might look like. I suppose that I assumed that the Shanghai I knew–full of shopping, eating, and business–continued for miles on end… but that is not what these communities looked like at all.

The train ride en route to Beijing certainly put me in my place. I knew that migrants made huge sacrifices to come to Shanghai. I knew that they made menial wages. I knew that they were pushed to the fringes. Still, I was sugarcoating the migrant experience, romanticizing it, and not actually contextualizing or understanding their lifestyle. As the train barreled through the exterior of Shanghai I couldn’t help but realize how off base I had been, while also realizing how easy my life is if my greatest worry is about sitting on a wooden bench next to a smelly man for a high-speed train ride.

The train ride gave me a glimpse of the migrant experience and therefore helped me appreciate and respect the difficulties that migrants must overcome in light of the luxuries that I had been enjoying for the last week. We travelled across the world for a research field trip; migrants’ children go to underfunded, sub-par schools. We took the high-speed train to save our precious time; migrants often commute over two hours to work. After actually seeing that migrants are not indulging in all of the modern delights and luxury of the Shanghai I had been exposed to thus far, I realized that this train ride taught me nearly as much about migrants as did the lectures I’d attended in the city.

 

Endless High-Rise Housing

Are We There Yet?

March 3rd, 2015 by Lanie Tubbs

The Past and Present? Which is the real China?

 

I went to New York, waited in many airports, sat through a 15 hour flight. All I wanted for my labors was an exciting picture in The Exotic China to post to my snapchat story to mark my first international experience. However, as I emerged from the subway into the heart of Shanghai onto Nanjing Lu, I couldn’t help but feel a bit disappointed… and confused. Had we arrived?

Save Chinese characters on signs and billboards, Shanghai hardly looked different from the United States. Prior to my trip, I had been told that going to China–especially for my first time out of the States–would be an extreme culture shock… that was not the case at all. Right away, I felt comfortable in Shanghai. I wasn’t nervous to explore the city alone and even felt that I could live there for an extended period of time.

Over the next few days, we visited areas such as the historical Yuyuan Garden. It was pictures of sites like these that caused my friends and family members to remark, “Oh, now that looks like China,” as they echoed the same expectations I once held about what is and is not China. Interestingly, sites like these preserved gardens and even the founding site of the National Congress of the Communist Party of China weremainly populated by other tourists and foreigners; I suppose the stereotypical nature of the sites attracted those of us who wanted to “see China.”

Non Arkaraprasertkul, a doctoral candidate at Harvard, shared with us his vast knowledge of Shanghai, particularly his research on Lilong Housing in the city. In doing so, he confirmed exactly what I’d observed: history is far from Shanghai’s priorities. Shanghai is an advertisement for Chinese modernity. As a result, the city has become so obsessed with proving itself–with growth, with newness, with globalization, with wealth–that it doesn’t care about nostalgia or the past. This past history is seemingly considered only a hurdle to the future, not an important story of a place or people. For example, Lilongs, a form of heritage housing, were once the breeding grounds for culture and social discourse and even represent historical architecture and urbanization; today, they are being torn down by the minute to make room for high-rise condos and business offices.

So, did Shanghai just erase history and dress up as an western city? I don’t think so (and leaving Shanghai at that assumption probably drastically overestimates how much the rest of the world wants to be American).

I think, my initial disappointment was the result of my misunderstanding of China. It’s not that Shanghai doesn’t look like China; it’s that China looks like (or is beginning to look like) Shanghai, a bustling, modern, global hub. While much of the country is still underdeveloped and many people still live in less than ideal conditions, China is racing towards globalization and urbanization. As a result, China doesn’t appear as I and many westerners expect simply because it is not by nature what we expect; it’s not trapped in the past nor is it an entire country preserved for westerns to visit as a tourist attraction. China doesn’t look like the film Mulan because China isn’t Mulan.