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The student blog for Rice University's Urban Lab in Shanghai.
 

Posts Tagged ‘Public Media’


Day 2- Enjoying and Embracing the Culture

March 6th, 2014 by glb1

Waking up in our hotel room after a very good night of sleep was surreal for me. I did feel bad for Michael who not only has to sleep on the unstable, inflatable bed, but also apparently had to put up with me and Evan’s snoring! I was a little worried about feeling the jet lag from the drastic time difference, but I think the excitement I have just being here has helped me quickly adjust (if that’s possible). Contrast to the weather yesterday, the weather today was clear and brisk which had a noticeable positive impact on the overall mood of the day. Venturing down to the subway, I was caught by surprise by how few people were out and about on the subway, but it’s probably due to it not being a workday.

Our first destination for the day was to the Yuyuan Garden. The architecture of many of the buildings within the general area and along the Ren Ming road embraced the traditional Chinese architecture which was exciting to see. Along the crowded street there were a countless number of shops selling things from “designer” watches and sunglasses to wigs. Making our way through the touristy market place took us to the very scenic and historic Yuyuan Garden. From the many, many pictures I took in the garden, one interesting image that I captured is one that embraced part of the traditional Chinese architecture of the ancient gardens along with a high-rise building being constructed shooting out from behind the trees. I felt like this was a perfect image of massive urbanization with the attempts to preserve the quintessential cultural heritage.

After the garden we headed to our two sessions that took place in the Shanghai Library. The first session was all about the history of Shanghai and from it I gained very valuable information that helped me gain a better understanding of how Shanghai got to its current state. The second session involved a woman who is a documentary director, and besides being able to see some of the productions she has been a part of, she shared some great information about the role of the government in the selection and development of the documentaries. The government controls the production of the films and they often get to select the subjects that they want to learn more about. The government will also sponsor the topics they choose. She also mentioned that the general assumption that is made when it is mentioned that the Chinese government is opening up is that this is being forced, however the government is actually just interested in learning more about certain topics and issues.

After our sessions we ended the day with a checking out Tianzifang, which is a collection of shops and restaurants that are configured through these very cool, narrow alley-like pathways. Another full day was of course then finished with a great meal.

Day 4 – An Insight Into Shanghai Media

March 6th, 2014 by mjr8

Day 4 gave us all a little insight into how the media works in Shanghai. Firstly, we had visited one of the most popular newspapers in Shanghai called the Global Times.

Global Times is a newspaper that highlights what is happening around the world, in addition to what is happening locally in Shanghai and China. Again, I would agree that a lot of our skepticism was dispelled after meeting with the head of the newspaper. The most contentious issue that I would say many people care about in China is whether or not media operates as an autonomous entity. We were told that though Global Times is owned by the state, the content is what the writers want it to be. She stressed to us that nobody is forced to write anything by the central government. From the outside, it is understandable to think such a thing. After all, each country has its own slant or bias when reporting on other countries. I think it is highly important that people should become impartial and not let government actions craft our opinions on the people of other nations, as we probably did before we found out that many of the preconceived stereotypes we had were untrue.

Besides the political side of the meeting there were some universal issues that were addressed, such as whether newspapers are a dying form of media or not. Based off of her opinion and ours, collectively, we agreed that newspapers are in fact a dying form of media. Despite the 1 million people who are subscribers of these newspapers, Global Times has shifted their focus to the internet. In a world where technology is easily accessible to people, it makes sense that businesses and media groups would look to be available to as many customers as they can. They even have versions of their news in English, reinforcing the concept that news outlets want to reach a wider array of audiences. Shortly after the meeting, though, we got a brief tour of the offices where people work on the newspaper and online website. Most people never get this chance so I definitely felt privileged to not only gather so much information about the newspaper from the director of it, but by also being able to have first person access to the “production” of the paper.

Next on the itinerary was to visit the Shanghai Media group or SMG. SMG is a multimedia broadcasting company that has a large influence on the media in Shanghai. When we got to the SMG’s building of operations we had first gotten a tour of the editing room, broadcasting set, and public relations office. Let me tell you, setting foot on the set where news anchors broadcast to millions of people each day is overwhelming.

After the quick tour of the building we met the directors of the SMG in a conference room. They were there to answer all of our questions on the role and responsibilities of news outlets in China and Shanghai. Though it was a bit of a reiteration of the meeting with Global Times, it was satisfying to get to see how other people’s mentalities are developed. At SMG, I got the sense that they were industrious when something relates to their job, in addition to being very fervent about it. They were quick to quell any disbelief we had about the role of media in Shanghai and as a matter of fact, in China. Again, they made sure that we understood that the central state, despite technically “owning” their company, had no role in what was broadcasted over the TV. Also, what seemed to be a serious concern for most of us on this trip, when interviewing people, is the pollution problem here in Shanghai. Unequivocally, most people in the West think in a parallel way to this. It is the collective belief that the government does not allow pollution and environmental concerns to be reported. According to these people, as well as most of the people we talked to, the Chinese government views pollution as an impediment to their goals of growth and as a detriment to people’s health. As a result, they encourage and allow people to highlight these issues by any means of media.

It always is important to take things with a grain of salt. This is exactly what I have done for the most part of this day. Although these people have influence and authority in what they do, it is always wise to question what comes out of their mouths. On the contrary, it is also important to be open minded and impartial to ideas in the world. If we were all close-minded to new ideas and thoughts, then the world would be a much different place, and not in a good way. So while I do still have some reservations and doubts about the handling on environmental issues here in Shanghai and China, at the same time I truly believe something is being done to alleviate the problems associated with it. No country wants to deal with this problem because not only does it affect the population’s health in the short term and long term, but it impacts the economy, something the Chinese government cannot afford.

Day 4 Reflection – Melissa

March 5th, 2014 by mrv3

A consistent theme of this trip has been eye-opening experiences.  I am no longer surprised at being surprised – in fact, at this point I almost expect it.  This day was no exception.  We visited an English-language newspaper (Global Times) and an international TV channel (International Channel Shanghai), and I was pleasantly surprised although vaguely skeptical at the level of optimism of the reporters we met with, as well as the degree of freedom with which they do their work.  It is really hard to tell at this point whether what we’ve been told by the American media about the Chinese media is true – that their reports are strictly censored, they can only cover certain topics, and they’re not allowed to criticize the government – or whether what I’ve heard from the Chinese media members here is true.  Perhaps it’s all relative, and there is not one real “truth” regarding media coverage.  This trip has made me realize that the Chinese government and its relationship to the citizens is not at all what we’re made by the American media to believe it is.  Every single person we have met with here has been incredibly positive about their government and the country in which they live, and it’s very refreshing given the level of negativity towards the American government that I consistently sense in America (and with expats living outside of America).  With the American government, it seems that the general consensus is that we’ve reached a point where productivity is impossible, cooperation even more impossible, the government arrogantly believes it’s the best in the world and doesn’t want to learn from others, and the people in charge of the government are not working in our best interest.  I don’t necessarily believe all or any of those to be true, but it’s something that I hear quite often.  In China, however, people seem incredibly positive that the Chinese government is constantly desiring to better itself and work towards bettering the lives of the people, that the officials are interested in learning from other countries in order to improve their own policies, and that growth and continued prosperity is a given.  This could obviously be because we’ve only met with successful people living in an overall very affluent city in China, but it could also be that this is the general agreement among Chinese citizens.  If it is, then perhaps everything we have been taught in the West about modern China is flawed.

Day 5: Public Media – Global Times and Shanghai Television Station

March 5th, 2014 by Tina

Walking through the Global Times (one of the most influential English-language Chinese newspapers in the world) and Shanghai Television Station offices, I felt like a little kid in a candy store. It was exciting seeing the places where newspapers and television broadcasts all come together. Here are some things I learned:

– Global Times is a national newspaper.

– Global Times has done a lot of reports on environmental issues, more than before. A representative said that because air is not an exclusive thing, more importance can be attached to it, and there will be more policies on it.

– A spokesperson said she thinks the trend in online media will be more apps, and that the website is easy to access.

– A day at the Global Times is packed and moves quickly, and the stories must include foreigners, since it is an English-language newspaper.

– At the Global Times, before the paper goes out, the editor might call the reporter in charge of a story to fact check on seemingly small things like whether the source “told the Global Times” or “said” – there is a HUGE journalistic difference between the two! “told the Global Times” means that the newspaper directly reached out to that person, and the person responded as a result of that point of contact.

– The readership of the Global Times is foreign research fellows, diplomats, and business circles. The newspaper also functions as an English-learning entity for people.

– Professor Fang said that the in the West, the Global Times is seen as nationalist and conservative.

– The Chinese version of the Global Times has a daily circulation of more than 1 million.

– A spokesperson said she thinks journalists should be allowed to express their own views in opinion columns.

– The representative said she thinks the SPJ Code of Ethics should be universal, and the bottom line is that journalists should not and do not tell lies, and that every country has problems with journalism.

– The representative said that aspiring journalists should be passionate and should resist temptations of better-paying jobs.

– At the Shanghai Television station, examples of programs are Shanghai Live and Bridge to Japan.

– Shanghai is the first Chinese city to have English-language news.

– International Channel Shanghai has three branches – news, features, entertainment.

– ICS’s target audience is the expat community and people who speak English.

– Journalists focus on interviews, angles, and stories, and don’t feel limited or pressured.

– ICS keeps a neutral stance on general news reporting.

– TV journalism is facing a serious challenge from new media, and now, responsibilities including keeping up with what the new media releases round-the-clock. Working in TV journalism is not a 9-5 job.

– Traditional media quality controls content – microblogs might have inaccurate reporting, one of the people we talked to at STV said.

The representative at the Global Times touched on this, but journalism, in practice, can never truly, truly, truly be fully objective. For instance, if you interview five sources but only have space to include the three in your article, you are exercising selection bias on some level. If you were to write every single thing every single person said, paying no attention to spacing and other practical issues, then you would essentially be a stenographer, not a journalist. But, as the representative said, the bottom line is that journalists do not lie. I think good journalism is getting an accurate, representative picture of the event, and honestly writing an article on it. As Professor Fang mentioned during a conversation I had with her, to be a journalist is to accept great responsibility – it is to accurately portray what people who can’t clarify later said.

Day 4 | March 4th, 2014

March 4th, 2014 by hb10

We spent our today immersed in media. Getting to ask Chinese journalists about their experiencing about working in the media — both print and broadcast– was very interesting. What struck me most about our conversations today was how passionate the women were about their jobs. There was not even a remote sense of criticism about the condition of the media in China today. We talked at length about an issue being focused on in the media recently; a terrorist attack in China being referred to with quotations around it on CNN, offending the Chinese in a profound way. Our lecturer at the newspaper made the point that the U.S. is wary of calling the incident a terrorist attack because of its disrespect of the condition of other countries. She mentioned that the U.S. would not stand for another country doing the same to them. This prompted me to ask the women at the news station about the representation of Muslims in the media. The responded that Chinese media keeps a fairly neutral view of Muslims as a group even when reporting on world issues. They also mentioned that make documentaries about ethnic minorities in China, including Muslim groups in the western part of the country, to educate the general public on new communities. They mentioned that the government supports these endeavors and is in favor of highlighting the diversity in China.

State Owned Media

March 4th, 2014 by efd1

Today we met with employees of the Global Times, an English language Chinese newspaper, and the International Channel of Shanghai, an English language news television channel. In China, all mass media is state owned, but the nature of the arrangement between the state and the news organization is much more complicated than the typical view from the west. Both of the organizations we visited were profit driven. They were expected to earn a profit (some percentage of which went back to the Chinese government) and fund their own operations, like a normal corporation. I had expected that Chinese media, being state owned, would serve primarily as a mouthpiece for the Chinese government. However, both of the organizations we visited appeared to be similar to western media outlets in that their concern was what the consumer of the news is interested in. Neither organization receives guidelines or was forced to report certain stories for the central government. The major difference is that the government has the authority to have articles pulled if they cover certain sensitive topics. This seems like a major restriction on the effectiveness of the news, but technological trends counteract government censorship. The rise of microblogging websites (like Twitter in the United States) has made it harder for the government to control the spread of information. This has allowed traditional Chinese media outlets more freedom in the content they are able to cover, especially as their role is often to provide facts and dispel rumors. Interestingly, both organizations stressed social responsibility as a part of their mission. In the era of the 24 hour news cycle, I’m left wondering if the profit centered focus of the news organization is any less limiting than government censorship and control of the media.

Day 4: Journalism – Practice, Process and Implications

March 3rd, 2014 by Tina

Here are some of the thoughts and questions in my mind today after listening to an urban planner/professor and expert on Chinese sustainability speak, and talking to Professors Chen and Fang:

– If journalists expect to be objective in their reporting, they must be objective with the questions they ask their sources.

– Thus, with the above reasoning, journalists should not enter an interview with a hidden agenda.

– Journalists should keep in mind who/what their source is representing at that point in time. The expert on sustainability works with the government and has dealt with media before; of course she is not going to say anything against those things.

– But, if it’s an interview – or digging through evidence – to find out “x” factor that is not transparent, then does it become necessary to adopt an “agenda”, if obtaining that information becomes the mission?

– But is the very act of finding any information on its own an agenda?

– If a non-profit organization, company, etc. pretty much writes their own articles for the media, then that’s not journalism – that’s public relations.

– Public relations isn’t the sister of journalism – journalism has no boundaries on information reporting (other than when seeking to minimize harm, per the second entry on the SPJ Code of Ethics, which is to minimize harm… but I might delve into that later)… but public relations does. Journalism, in theory (not necessarily in practice), goes one step further than public relations.

One of the things the expert on Chinese sustainability mentioned was that China’s news covers the concept of “green” more than people can imagine, in a higher and better capacity than the United States covers it. The expert used an example of something he/she had heard on a morning radio show in the United States, which was someone stating that the source of climate change is the sun, and that you wouldn’t hear such an unintelligent statement in the Chinese press.

– To quote Voltaire: “I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it.”

– Based on the expert’s statement about what the climate denier said… does the notion of a “free press” (“free” meaning no third party stands between the journalist and the source and limits what can or cannot be said) mean the slowing down of progress in areas such as environmental issues?

In retrospect, the urban developer/professor somewhat answered my question above without even knowing it. He talked about how after the U.S. embassy showed the air quality index (I believe he was referencing Shanghai, and not Beijing), coverage of environmental issues increased in the Chinese media, although even before that, there was lots of coverage on “green,” just not the grassroots side of it (which is what the organization he works for focuses on). The government even gives money to make green buildings happen. Free-flowing information can spark a change, and I think even terribly researched opinions (like those of global warming deniers in the United States), can start movement in the “right” direction (in the case of the environment, towards greener initiatives), because whenever there is a statement, there is also a counterstatement.

A worker with the Shanghai Subway Company gave the second lecture of the day. My interaction with this speaker and others and watching the interactions of the group with this speaker and others has reinforced the importance of clarification in asking questions in journalism. The worker talked about how safety is one of the biggest challenges facing the Shanghai subway system right now. I wasn’t sure exactly what she meant by safety – as safety can encompass many things – so I asked her to define it. She answered that by “safety,” she meant “daily safety” – getting people where they want to go and having drivers who work carefully on a daily basis.

So far, this trip has made me think a lot about the practice, process, and implications of journalism.

*The newspaper pictured above is not related to the speakers or lecture topics. It is merely a newspaper I saw in a coffee shop.

Day 2 – A Glimpse Into Shanghai’s Past

March 3rd, 2014 by mjr8

The second day was probably just as busy as or at least busier than the first. We had an entire day planned ahead us, starting from Yuyuan temple to a public media lecture at Shanghai Library. Speaking of Yuyuan Garden, that place is probably one of the most scenic areas a person could visit in their lifetime. Its history actual history, though, spans all the way to the 16th century with the Ming dynasty. This is a time when the North American colonies were not even established. It is such a weird, yet awe-inspiring feeling to be stepping where Chinese royals once stood and where the British had occupied during the First Opium War. Though I knew of how extensive Chinese culture is, I did not get the full picture until I stepped into ancient sites such as Yuyuan Garden. Most would agree that this is a “touristy” spot, but at the same time, going to cultural sites like Yuyuan is necessary to get an accurate perception of China. Most people think of Mao or Communism, but there is so much more to China. My best advice would be to explore the early beginnings of China and to visit such places while in China; you will begin to appreciate history much more.

At this point in the day it was still relatively early so we had much more to uncover about the wonders of Shanghai. Taking a little “pit stop,” we visited a marketplace nearby where merchants sell all kinds of goods ranging from “designer” glasses to teddy bears. While there are stores such as Gucci, GAP, and other name brands, going to these small marketplaces instills a sense of authenticity in a person’s trip here. Nothing compares to the crowdedness, the pace, or the bargaining that takes place in these markets. Where else could you convince a store owner to lower the price on glasses from 200RMB to possibly 100RMB? Besides a garage sale, I can’t conceive of any place in the United States that has the same characteristics. Going to these tiny street stores is definitely an event that will forever be stored in my mind.

Maybe an hour or so later we decided to go make our way towards the Shanghai library, the place where we had lectures over the history of Shanghai, in addition to the public media in Shanghai. The moment we walked in this place I was again impressed at the cleanliness of such public venues. I feel as if people indeed have a strong work ethic and a sense of pride in their work here. Everywhere I go I see people not toil, but work like their job is a “labour of love.” Now I am not saying that every place is as spotless as the Beijing airport or the Shanghai library, but so far most of these places have impressed me with their overall features. Anyways, we had gotten to the lecture room where both presenters were patiently waiting. Before I describe to you the actual content of the lectures, I must point out the hospitality of many people that we have encountered here on a professional level. Many of these people always look to make their guest comfortable and happy. They never hesitate to offer you tea, water, or anything else. This is very welcoming, which I think contributes to the instant comfort felt between people here.

Now it was time for the lectures. This was most interesting because there were some facts told during the presentation that I was not aware of such as what the First Opium War, the Treaty of Nanking, and the amount of influence that foreigners had in China during the 1800s and very early 1900s. To get a better understanding of the city you are in, I think it is necessary to build at least some sort of basic foundation in which you can see how and why the city developed the way it did. In lieu of this, we learned about the significance of the Bund. This area was a major spot of economic activity because of the nearby Huangpu River acting as an entrance into this area. Even more so, because of the heavy European influence, this area has many French, British, and English buildings stretched across the main street. On a side note, I find it so amazing that a country in Asia has districts that resemble European cities. If you face away from Pudong and the river, looking back into the Nanjing Road, you would probably confuse this place from being Germany or France.

Besides the history of Shanghai, we gathered some knowledge on the role of public media in China. I felt as if this was a very important topic to discuss because many people think of China as being a place where the media is continuously spouting propaganda and slogans. Based off of what was being told by our lecturer who worked at a news station, Chinese media isn’t as restrictive as we see it purported to be back home. It was mentioned that people work generally with freewill, with respect to the boundaries set by the government. To clarify, the government is not actively forcing journalists or news channels to cover what they want. They are not forcing anybody to do anything. The only thing that they do is set a boundary for certain topics, which generally isn’t much. I am guessing this is sort of a way to avoid inciting violence among certain groups of people or to avoid reporting offensive material. I still feel as if it is used as a way to stop people from making defamatory remarks about leaders in China, but then again she did mention that local leaders are always criticized in papers and other media outlets.

This was just the beginning of the week so I knew that we have so much left to explore. It is incredible that this city has endless amounts of attractions ranging from Buddhist temples to luxury stores lining row by row. I just can’t help but notice how quick Chinese society has progressed from a relatively poor country to one that is the holder of the second largest economy in the world. Despite this country being very “Eastern,” I just cannot help but notice how some of the city’s cultural characteristics mirror ours back home in the United States.

 

Day 3 – Yuyuan and City Temple, Shanghai Library, Shanghai Documentary Channel, and Tianzifang – Tina

March 2nd, 2014 by Tina

I felt good and ready to go today! After breakfast at the hotel, we visited Yuyuan, a gorgeous garden for the royal family during the Ming Dynasty.

Then, we went to the City Temple. It was interesting seeing so many people praying there. I guess I wasn’t expecting the Chinese people to be that religious before I came to China, for one reason or another.

Next, we had lunch at the oldest Vegetarian restaurant in Shanghai. Everything was really good, and as Evan mentioned, the vegetable “beef” tasted a lot like real beef.

After that, we went to the Shanghai Public Library and listened to the librarian; give a lecture titled “Shanghai in the Past Century.” She divided her talk into three sections – “Ancient Shanghai: A Traditional Town in the South of China,” “Modern Shanghai: A Treaty Port City,” and “Contemporary Shanghai: An International Metropolis.” Some interesting tidbits I learned about modern Shanghai (the librarian showed us a wonderful, witty video during her lecture):

–          It is the 8th largest city in the world

–          It has been described as the “Paris of the East”

–          While it is the largest Chinese city, it has the lowest fertility rate in the nation

–          Shanghai is sinking at a rate of 1.5 centimeters per year… yikes

–          Shanghai is the birthplace of Chinese theater

–          Shanghai consumes the most sugar out of all the other places in China

–          Shanghai’s Marriage Market – Google it

Next, we listened to someone from the Shanghai Documentary Channel. She showed us a portion of a documentary she had directed about Ürümqi, China, the place furthest away from an ocean in on the entire Earth. During her talk and the Q&A afterwards, I learned some interesting things about TV media in China:

–          The Chinese government owns TV stations, although the state is not responsible for the TV station profiting

–          Virtually no TV stations are privately owned in China

–          Each channel has a different team working on the corporate content

–          Not all documentaries are for governmental interests (the word used during the Q&A was “propaganda”)

–          Someone looks over the final product (documentary, in this case), but not for checking that a certain message has been sent to the public

–          Nowadays, the government outlines boundaries as to what TV media can’t do, as opposed to saying they need to do “x,y, or z”

–          People in the industry feel that the process of journalism/TV are moving more towards an open avenue

–          According to her, air pollution is not a very prohibited subject, as long as the government does not get the blame for the environmental issues

These points have painted a better picture of so-called press freedom in China than I expected going in, but I still raise my eyebrow at the Chinese government 1. owning all TV stations, and 2. outlining boundaries. This is, even if on minimally invasive level as her implied today, still press censorship. A free media is not obligated to answer to any third party but the public.

One of the most interesting things I learned from her was that when deciding on a topic to make a documentary out of, the documentary team will ask a range of half a pool of experts from various fields for suggestions. One thing Professor Fang mentioned is that even if experts propose things with no apparent third party hovering over them, they probably self-censor. Which brings me to…

At the end of the day, don’t all journalists self-censor? George Orwell put it interestingly – “Journalism is printing what someone else does not want printed: everything else is public relations.” Writing for the campus newspaper, I don’t come across many stories that warrant me getting information someone else would “not want printed,” as people aren’t generally defensive about the location and details of the upcoming homecoming dance or sexual assault information talks at orientation week. But, I would imagine that covering more controversial stories would require a degree of self-censorship for the sake of getting at least some information to the public – for instance, if I were covering a new famous upcoming product, I would be able to find out details about its release and basic functions, but probably not its name, if the company was waiting for a big reveal. Therefore, the increase my chances of getting the former information, I would either wait until the end to ask about the name, or not ask out all, after feeling out the situation and determining where everyone stands.

On a more obvious level, journalists self-censor all the time because journalistic writing – pure, ethical, journalistic writing – is supposed to be objective. Being unbiased requires self-censorship; it requires holding back your own thoughts and opinions on the subject matter at hand.

Afterwards, we went shopping and sightseeing at Tianzifang, and we had Taiwanese food at a nice little restaurant in the area.

Day 2 Reflection – Melissa

March 2nd, 2014 by mrv3

Today was a day of shopping, walking, and LOTS of picture-taking.  Oh, and food, of course.  We started off the morning with a beautiful walk through the Yuyuan Garden – it was actually perfect, because the weather was cool and clear and sunny, and it was not very crowded within the Garden itself.  We got split into two groups because my group wanted to take 5000 pictures at every spot (definitely worth it – we got so many fantastic photos out of the experience), and I think we spent more time at the Garden than we originally planned…but, like I said, completely worthwhile.  I went to the Yuyuan Garden last time I came to Shanghai, but this time around it was much more fun because the weather was too hot last time and there were too many other tourists.  After the Garden, we ate a delicious lunch of vegetarian cuisine and then walked around and shopped at the nearby market before heading over to the Shanghai Library for a lecture on Shanghai history and documentaries.  I really enjoyed the portion about documentaries, because I had previously never really thought about the time, work, and planning that goes into making documentaries.  It seems like a wonderful thing to be a part of – but also lots of stress.  We concluded the day with what should have been my favorite part (jetlag killed a bit of my fun today, so I was quite tired by the end), Tianzifang.  This area is absolutely perfect – Wikipedia describes it as an “arts and crafts enclave,” and I agree with this assessment, but it’s so much more.  There were stores selling arts and crafts, yes, but there were also themed restaurants, mini bars protruding into the narrow alleyways, fantastic and funny original t-shirt designs, teahouses with enticing aromas – I could go on and on, but it was fabulous.  I definitely plan on going back sometime!  But now it is time to sleep.  Peace.